Parterre is the first UK fragrance brand built from seed to bottle – or from botanic gardens to distillery – all within a short walk of each other. Founders David and Julia Bridger explain how they grew their own scent farm, from the roots up…Words Mark HooperPhotographs Sam Walton JuliaDorset is one of the few counties in England without a motorway. There are good things and bad things about this. On the downside it means that the taxi driver is liable to get lost when – armed only with a postcode – you ask them to take you to an 18thcentury mill house nestling on the edge of the River Stour in the Tarrant Valley near the market town of Blandford Forum. On the plus side, it’s the reason I’m here: because Keyneston Mill Botanic Gardens arguably wouldn’t exist otherwise.Only founded in 2016, the former fruit farm ticked all the boxes when David and Julia Bridger first chanced upon it. Having both carved successful careers – David in design and marketing, Julia in advertising and then luxury property rental – the couple were looking for a new challenge, armed with certain specific criteria. Having set up home in Hampshire, where David grew up on a non-working farm (‘There were a few cows around’), Julia had become a keen gardener, trialling specialist plants. Remembering her childhood visits to the French fragrance capital of Grasse, the seed of an idea was sown. The two started searching for locations where they could grow crops for the fragrance market. And Keyneston was the hidden gem they’d been looking for.‘Dorset is quite interesting,’ says David. ‘It’s more rural than Hampshire and therefore there are more horticultural opportunities, because it’s less developed.’ The opportunity in this case was something of an ambitious one: to create the largest private botanic gardens in the country dedicated solely to aromatic and scented plants. In other words, as David explains, ‘to take the seed-tobottle concept, which is starting with the ingredients, actually growing the flowers, all the way through to the fragrance’. Now, just two years down the line, the mill grows more than 2,000 varieties, providing the key ingredients for their fragrance brand Parterre, with perfumes distilled on-site.This is no small undertaking. The production process involves growing ingredients from seed, planting in the crop fields, and knowing when to harvest, distill and refine. There wasn’t even a clear model for them to base any of this on.‘In the world of fine fragrance,’ says David, ‘what they tend to do is get their ingredients from all over – Bulgaria, Morocco… they grow the May rose in Grasse, but that’s all I think. As perfume grew as an industry, they had to look at different ways to produce it, with economies of scale. Grasse used to be the countryside, but now it’s just the outskirts of Cannes…’‘In the 1970s and 1980s, a lot of perfume companies started using ingredients in labs,’ continues Julia, ‘so the demand for perfume to be grown in France probably dropped off.’ have founded the first British seed-to-bottle fragrance brand at their Dorset-based organic gardensDavid Bridgerthe many varieties of fragrant plants grown at Keyneston are lovingly tended by the staffand irrigated with water from the River StourNanette WraithSo, if even the established perfume houses have eschewed the concept of a seed-to-bottle business all based at one single site, it rather begs the question…‘Why hasn’t anyone done this before? No one’s been mad enough to do it!’ chuckles David. ‘But the more serious answer to that is there’s a whole range of skills required to go from seed to bottle, and piecing that together is quite hard work. You need horticulturalists – gardeners and botanists – there’s distillation, the laboratory, our perfumer Jacques Chabert…’‘And that’s without all the marketing,’ Julia interjects. ‘I suppose like all things, if you weren’t a bit naïve when you began, you’d never do it!’‘It didn’t seem that complicated when we started off,’ adds David, with a wry smile.But it’s not just naïvety – albeit coupled with enthusiasm and tenacity – that has brought Parterre to market. Meticulous research helps. But more than anything, there is a question of timing. The outsourced, multinational approach to production is something that is beginning to be questioned in all industries – and the Bridgers have been wise enough to recognise this opportunity and run with it. ‘Because there’s a regrowth of interest in naturals and authenticity and provenance, I think we’ve almost accidentally bumped into this idea that people are now genuinely interested to know where the ingredients have come from,’ says David.So what better than to create a botanical garden, open to the public, where one can engage in the entire process – even taking workshops in perfumery and distillery? The site also boasts a river meadow and ‘lost orchard’ for those wanting to get back to nature, as well as a ‘cocktail dome’ and garden, open-air cinema and The Scented Botanist bistro-café, offering a fresh menu with an emphasis on fragrant ingredients – including salad leaves, herbs and flowers all grown on site.As well as the surrounding crop fields where the key ingredients are grown, there is also a formal ‘Collection Garden’, which is divided into compartments, each one representing a perfume family. The Padua Garden focuses on floral plants such as roses, jasmine and geranium, while the Fougere Garden features ferns, lavender and mosses and the Parterre’s geometric layout contains aromatic herbs.For such an ambitious project, finding the right site was key – and Keyneston Mill ticked all the boxes in terms of criteria, from acreage to climate. ‘It turned out to be absolutely spot on,’ says David. ‘It was run down as an estate – but 20 years ago it was quite a famous pick-your-own fruit farm and it had a vineyard too. They had created low pH soil, they’d put in windbreaks and the water all comes from the river, so we just put in some irrigation. So much of the groundwork had been done.’‘And it’s south facing, it slopes in the right way… so we could see the potential,’ adds Julia. ‘And from a planning point of view there had been a coffee shop and a small farm shop here, so there was the possibility of getting planning permission for the café and our other plans.’Keyneston also benefits from a particularly good microclimate. ‘I think Dorset has the second highest sunshine hours in the UK,’ says David – although, he points out, the British climate in general doesn’t lend itself to growing all the key ingredients traditionally used in fragrances. Most tropical plants can only be grown in a glasshouse, for instance – so what ensued was a period of experimental growing, discovering through trial and error what would and wouldn’t work.Nanette Wraith, head of aromatic plants and crops, who leads the team of gardeners and botanists at the mill, is key in this process. ‘We’ll ask, “Can we grow a tonka bean tree?” “No! Absolutely not!” [laughs]; “Can we grow this, that and the other?” And she’ll say, “Well, let’s give it a try…”’One surprising success story was vetiver. ‘It’s an Indian grass – and people said it wouldn’t grow, but it’s worked really well,’ says David. ‘It turns out to be reasonably hardy. And then there are plants that haven’t been used for perfumery before really, which grow perfectly well in an English climate. So that’s what we’re discovering at the moment.’is head of Aromatic Plants & Crops at Keyneston, while the aptly named  Ben Greenwellis Keyneston’s maitre de feuillage But, of course, the growing is only one stage of the process. Just as key for the business was to find experts in perfumery who could advise them – and to brush up on their chemistry. ‘My chemistry stopped at O’ Level,’ says David, ‘but now we’re sitting in meetings with a room full of chemists – and it’s really interesting. A lot of what we get into is the molecules and elements in, for instance, lemon balm versus lemons. One of the few things I’ve discovered is citral and lemonine have molecules that make things lemony or orangey, so we’re playing around with all these plants. My most common Google search is “the chemical composition of…”’One of the breakthroughs for the couple was meeting Virginie Daniau, who is now the president of the British Society of Perfumers. When they told her of their plans for Parterre, the boldness of their vision impressed her. ‘She said, “I don’t know anyone else who’s doing that”. She thought it was a bit wild but really exciting,’ says Julia. ‘Then we began to get our horticultural team together, which involved some strange discussions because several of the plants involved in perfumery are called different things in horticultural terms, so there was plenty of scratching of heads, trying to work out what was what.’‘That whole area is very tricky,’ says David, picking up the theme. ‘For instance, the geranium you get in perfumery is actually a pelargonium. The thing about Virginie is, the more we got into it, the more we thought it was a good idea. We really loved the flowers and the horticulture, and then with Virginie it became a potential idea. There’s so much that comes out of it because the ingredients are interesting, the flowers are interesting, the perfume is interesting – and Julia and I are in among the things we find interesting – creativity, design, travel. It all feeds back in.’It was Daniau who first introduced them to master perfumer Jacques Chabert, one of the most respected names in the business, who has worked for perfume houses including Chanel and Guerlain. Drawing inspiration from the essences and keynote ingredients they send him, he blends potential fragrances at his family perfumiers, split between Grasse and Paris. The relationship between them constantly switches between client and supplier – with Chabert first advising them on the quality of ingredients and the extracts they are producing, and the Bridgers then feeding back to him on the scents he develops from them.Aaron, is part of the landscaping and planting team. the key ingredients are grown in the crop fields beyond the formal gardensEllie is deputy to Nanette Wraith.  From seed to bottle,The missing and – if you’ll pardon the pun – essential stage of this process is the distillation – the creation of extracts or essential oils that are then sent on to Chabert’s laboratory. The distillation process is an art in itself, since the extracts become the key notes in the final fragrances. This process is overseen by Zohra Khaliq, head of botanical extracts, Ben Greenwell, with the brilliant title of maître du feuillage, and Alan Pettitt, who was technical director at Chanel for 18 years. ‘He’s brilliant,’ enthuses David. ‘He’s our main chemistry consultant. He’s full of life and knows his stuff backwards.’The entire business, from breaking soil to going to market, has developed at an incredible pace. ‘In horticultural terms it’s been breakneck speed,’ says David. The Bridgers only moved into Keyneston Mill in November 2015. ‘We started work in January 2016,’ says Julia, ‘when we had two people working for us. We gradually built up the team and that summer put the first crops in – 15 in all, some of which worked really well, like the vetiver, and some were a disaster… we won’t be doing that again!’The first perfumes were launched in Fortnum & Mason in October 2017, made with the oils from that first 2016 crop. So the whole process – maturing the oils, sending the extracts to the perfumer, creating the perfumes, producing the brand work and getting them to market – took just a year. ‘David has always said we’ve got to do it and get into market, because until you start getting the revenue through, when you’ve got a big team working on it, it’s crazy,’ says Julia.To say the learning curve has been steep is something of an understatement. ‘Even in that first year, because we wanted to do a citrus fragrance and we didn’t have any citrus trees at that point, we started looking at other options,’ Julia recalls. ‘And verbena seemed the obvious thing to do. But actually you’re not allowed to use it any more because some people have sensitivities to it, so we started looking experimentally with different plants that could produce a citrus scent. We tried various different things, from Melissa [lemon balm] through to bergamot mint, lemon thyme and things that aren’t usually used in perfumery, because we had to find something.’ (‘Got to find an alternative to lemons basically,’ says David.) ‘But that got us to thinking – well if we can do that, and it smells good and it went through the review board with the chemists – even the perfumer thought it was quite unusual and different – then we thought, maybe we can do that with other things too.’ It gave them the confidence to realise that their unconventional approach had won over some of the proven names in the field.Another of Parterre’s innovations was to number their perfume editions to the exact total of bottles produced from each extraction. Each bottle is individually numbered by hand – because each year produces a limited amount of the oils forming the key notes, which in turn dictates the quantities. ‘I really like the idea of that,’ says David. ‘Why call it 500 when you know exactly how many bottles we can make?’ ‘It was an equation,’ adds Julia. ‘We had to work out how many bottles we could make from the oil.’It’s another one of those natural decisions that reveals a disarmingly honest approach. By opening their doors to every stage of the process, they hope to offer something unique in the tightknit, exclusive and secretive world of fragrances.‘I think people like the idea that they’re seeing the beginning of it,’ says David. ‘The idea of seeing it grow, building it up – they like the work-in-progress of it…’ parterreatkeynestonmill.com seedlings are carefully cultivated before planting out in the crop fields beyond the formal gardens