Soul FoodJaya Modi shares the making of The Elephant’s Secret Kitchen collaborative cookbookSometimes, the best thing about secrets is that they can be shared. A few of us too, had a secret, back in university – a safe haven for respite, tucked away from the busy square and high street of Elephant & Castle.

When I was student, my mother, like any other, would query whether I had eaten – good, warm, nutritious food – that day. In retrospect, it was only thanks to Elephant’s secret kitchen, that sometimes my ‘Yes, Ma!’ wasn’t actually a lie.

This is probably why The Elephant’s Secret Kitchen cookbook is a project that I will always hold close to my heart. It taught me that nourishment wasn’t just about hunger, but so much more.

The Elephant’s Secret Kitchen is a cookbook collaboratively produced by a select team of students, and specialist staff from the London College of Communication, along with the wonderful folks at café Jamyang – situated at the Buddhist Centre in Elephant & Castle.

For years, students and teachers have frequented the café, cultivating cherished friendships in the cheerful spaces of the centre. A conversation between friends spontaneously sparked to actualise a dream that Ilaria – chef at Jamyang, always had. The following months would then see the café transform into almost a studio of sorts, as it became home to our ideas and plans for the book. One could pop by and see students spending entire lunches drawing their beautiful surroundings, and enjoying as Ilaria fussed over them, bringing them treats from time to time.

As creatives, we always looked to engage with exciting and meaningful endeavours. What drew me towards this cookbook was how it sought to bring people together – through both its collaborative creation, and also the recipes held within. It felt so personal to share a mutual experience of construction and curation; where despite having to put in extra time, outside of our studies, we were all happy to be there – mulling over colour swatches, punctuation and design decisions.
This initiative was in collocation with a natural dyeing workshop that educated participants of natural inks and dyes sourced from kitchen waste. The derived pigments from the workshop – that encompassed more 40 different shades of colours – were then used to dye the bookmarks that sit in the cookbook, waiting their turn as you flip through its pages.

The thing about making something good is that it fulfills you; it sustains you. For many of us who were regular patrons to the café, we really looked forward to giving back to the place that brought us so much joy. We wanted to do it in a way that truly epitomised the spirit of Jamyang – one of sharing, simplicity, positivity and acceptance. This is why a conscious effort was made to maintain a sustainable course across the book’s inception and production. 

The limited-run publication was proudly printed in-house on the university Heidelberg lithography press using soy based inks, on the eco-friendly Crush selection of paper sourced from Favini in Italy; that combines repurposed and recycled paper with food waste materials like corn, olives and kiwi, to create unique coloured stock.

Ilaria ensured that peppered throughout the cookbook, are various tidbits of knowledge and anecdotes – each that encourage the reader to use the book in the best way that it can serve them. For me, I have always loved the ‘Rebirth’ section. The versatility of the recipes echoes the value of cooking that Ilaria imparts – that of no wastage. ‘Food is precious! Use what you have, change ingredients, swap things around, you are a master chef in your own right.’ Her style of cooking taught me that what is accessible and affordable, can still be used to birth the most magnificent of meals. She says a meal is better shared – I couldn’t agree more.
cafeatjamyang.co.ukADUKI, ROASTED 
CAULIFLOWER,
TARRAGON
SERVES 5-6Ingredients
Aduki beans, 1 cup (raw)
Caulifl ower, 1
Tarragon, 5-6 sprigs

Seasoning
Harissa, ½ tsp (OR red chilli, ½)
Lemon, a squeeze
Herbs de Provence, 1 + 1 tsp
EVO oil
Salt, pepper
Optional
Kombu seaweed, 2-3 cm
Garlic, 1 clove
Put the aduki in a pot with a couple of tablespoons of oil, pepper and herbs and gently fry for a couple of minutes. Then, add 2 cups of water and let them cook on a gentle heat for about 50 minutes to an hour or until tender. If you wish, also add a few cm of kombu seaweed. Add more water if needed.

While the beans are cooking, detach the cauliflower florets and place them in a tray, seasoning them with enough oil to leave a thin coat over them and adding an extra splash to create a nice mirror underneath. Caulifl ower soaks up quite a bit of oil, so be generous. Also add the herbs de Provence, harissa or chopped red chilli, a generous grind of pepper, a good pinch of salt and an espresso cup of water, mixing well before placing in a hot oven. Roast for 40 minutes to an hour, turning the florets from time to time. If they get too dry, add a couple of spoons of water during the cooking to keep them moist. In the meantime, finely chop the tarragon leaves.
When the beans are cooked, drain any remaining juice and either discard or retain for another dish, such as a soup or a stew – we’re heavily in favour of the latter option as it’s such a rich and tasty liquid!

When the florets are done, soft and golden while retaining a bite, add the aduki beans, tarragon leaves, a squeeze of lemon and adjust salt and pepper. If you wish, squeeze in a clove of garlic, it works very well. The cooking oil from the cauliflower should be enough to season the beans as well, but feel free to add a dribble more to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature.